Mar 20 2011
A Fashionable Meal
I don’t particularly enjoy the New York Time’s Fashion & Style section, for a variety of reasons (one of them being that I don’t care much about the next ‘in’ thing, as my closet will testify), but when I saw the headline for “a dish that’s always in fashion,” I obviously had to check it out; if there’s food involved, I want to know.
It turns out that this dish is the humble pot pie, relished by the fashionable set for its ease of execution, presentation and service, and for the way it has of warming our collective cockles (and taste buds). There I was imagining that Chanel et al. would probably serve things like lobster bisque and/or sushi at their shows, but lo and behold, the jet-set enjoy their recession-proof comfort foods as much as the rest of us do. The press has been duly alerted.
I happen to love pot pies as well. I discovered them in New York City, when I was just married, at Bridie’s (on Woodhaven Bd, in Rego Park), the salty and creamy filling, the flaky top, and I was instantly won over by their simplicity and taste–although it was clear that the basic premise could easily be improved upon. They’re very easy to make at home, but I don’t do it very often, mostly because I forget. I’m always looking for something new to try, and since, well, I’ve done that, I’ve moved on to other things. But reading about it in the paper, just as I was trying to come up with an idea for the weekend’s festivities, reminded me of how nice it would be to dine on these sooner rather than later.
I had the perfect excuse: my friend Damir was coming over for dinner yesterday, and my son and his lovely girlfriend wanted to cook with me over the weekend. We could all have a great time with this. And we certainly did.
I’ve known Damir for a long time. We met through his sister Visnja, who was one of my partners in crime at the Sorbonne, and we have kept in touch through the years. As a nuclear physicist working on the VIRGO project,* he comes Stateside about once or twice a year for conferences, and usually stops in New York on his way in or out of the country. We get to spend a little time together then and reminisce about the old days, which is always fun.
On to pot pies. The traditional recipe calls for chicken and vegetables in a creamy white sauce, topped with a buttery pastry. I wanted something equally rich but not as heavy, meatless (because our vegetarian daughter would be joining us), and with a more interesting topping than the usual. I surfed a few sites in search of some inspiration, and found a few things I was able to turn into something new, which is the way I like to cook: I just take a look at a recipe for basic information, then I make it my own by blissfully ignoring the directions. It’s the same principle I follow for a new piece of kitchen equipment or computer program, actually. Step number one: throw away the booklet.
For the filling, I chose to include umami builders such as soy sauce, dried mushrooms and a little bit of tomato paste (all rich in glutamates). Add to this some sweet vegetables like carrots, celery root and onions (all nicely browned), some lentils for protein and texture, herbs for color and fresh flavor, a little bit of cream for added silkiness, and you have the basis for a comforting, savory pot pie.
For the pastry, I settled on a buttery and fuss-free topping. A cheesy drop biscuit (the inspiration for which I found in a Cook’s Illustrated magazine), it doesn’t need to be rolled out and carefully placed on the individual ramequins that house the filling. The biscuits get their texture from melting the butter first, then, when slightly cooled, whisking it in very cold buttermilk: the little drops of butter that form in the liquid are what will ultimately provide the flaky goodness everyone loves, without any of the work. I’m all for simplifying things whenever possible.
So thanks to my family and friend for a lovely evening. I hope we get to do it again soon.
* I’m telling you all this because it makes me sound a lot smarter than I am, obviously. So far, however, I’m sad to report that none of all that brain power has rubbed off on the rest of us.
Vegetarian pot pies
For the filling:
1 small celery knob (to yield about 1.5 cups when diced)
2 medium carrots
2 small onions
1 large clove garlic
1 oz dried porcini mushrooms
2 medium red or Yukon gold potatoes
2 Tbsp flour
2.5 to 3 cups liquid from reconstituted mushrooms
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 Tbsp soy sauce
1/4 cup French green lentils
2 bay leaf
a few sprigs of thyme
2 Tbsp heavy cream
1/2 cup each green beans and peas (optional)
1 Tbsp chopped parsley (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste
Biscuit topping:
1 cup very cold buttermilk
1 stick butter (about 120 gr.)
2 cups flour
1/2 tsp salt
pinch black pepper
3/4 cup grated aged cheese (gouda, cheddar or parmesan)
1.5 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
Wash lentils. Boil 2 cups of salted water with a bay leaf and a few sprigs of thyme. Cook lentils for 20 to 30 min. until tender. Drain and set aside.
Place the mushroom in a large bowl with 4 cups boiling water and let stand for 15 min. Drain (saving liquid) and rinse mushrooms, then chop. Filter the liquid through a coffee filter, and save.
Slice the onions, dice the celery knob and potatoes in 1/2″ cubes and slice the carrots. Sauté onions gently in olive oil until they become golden. Add celery knob and carrots and cook over medium low to low heat until the vegetables are golden brown, about 10 min. Add potatoes and mushrooms, and sauté for few more minutes. Chop garlic, add to the vegetables, and cook for another minute. Add flour and mix well. Cook for an additional minute, then add liquid. Mix thoroughly. As it heats, the mixture will thicken. Add tomato paste, soy sauce, 1 bay leaf, thyme, salt and pepper. Let cook until vegetables are done, about 20 min (test with the tip of a knife). Add cream, beans, peas and parsley and mix well. Remove bay leaf and thyme sprigs.
Make biscuit dough: Melt butter then let cool slightly. Whisk melted butter in buttermilk until butter begins to form tiny droplets. Mix dry ingredients together, then pour buttermilk mixture in. Mix gently only until flour is incorporated (do not overmix).
Assemble the pot pies: fill 9oz ramequins and drop 1/4 cup biscuit mix on top. Place ramequins on a baking sheet and bake in preheated 375 oven until biscuits are done and golden on top. This should take about 20 min.
Remove from oven and let cool for a few minutes before serving. Makes about 6 pot pies.
Out of the oven...
... and on to the table.
