May 08 2011
Postcard From Wonderland
When I was about 12 years old, my sisters gave me an illustrated book of the songs from Alice in Wonderland (in English, of course). The illustrations were wonderful and Lewis Carroll’s poetry is hilarious; the early and avid Anglophile that I was absolutely loved that book.
The poem/song known as Turtle Soup and/or Beautiful Soup was my favorite. My sister Catherine and I used to sing it to each other in mock lyrical tones. It is meant as a satirical take on sentimental Victorian songs, particularly that entitled “Beautiful Star,” by James Sayles. The Mock Turtle chokes back tears as he sings for Alice:
‘Oh, a song, please, if the Mock Turtle would be so kind,’ Alice replied, so eagerly that the Gryphon said, in a rather offended tone, ‘Hm! No accounting for tastes! Sing her “Turtle Soup,” will you, old fellow?’
The Mock Turtle sighed deeply, and began, in a voice sometimes choked with sobs, to sing this: -
‘Beautiful Soup, so rich and green,
Waiting in a hot tureen!
Who for such dainties would not stoop?
Soup of the evening, beautiful Soup!
Soup of the evening, beautiful Soup!
Beau – ootiful Soo – oop!
Beau – ootiful Soo – oop!
Soo – oop of the e – e – evening,
Beautiful, beautiful Soup!
‘Beautiful Soup! Who cares for fish,
Game, or any other dish?
Who would not give all else for two
pennyworth only of beautiful Soup?
Pennyworth only of beautiful Soup?
Beau – ootiful Soo – oop!
Beau – ootiful Soo – oop!
Soo – oop of the e – e – evening,
Beautiful, beauti – ful soup!’
‘Chorus again!’ cried the Gryphon, and the Mock Turtle had just begun to repeat it, when a cry of ‘The trial’s beginning!’ was heard in the distance.
‘Come on!’ cried the Gryphon, and, taking Alice by the hand, it hurried off, without waiting for the end of the song.
‘What trial is it?’ Alice panted as she ran; but the Gryphon only answered ‘Come on!’ and ran the faster, while more and more faintly came, carried on the breeze that followed them, the melancholy words: -
‘Soo – oop of the e – e – evening,
Beautiful, beautiful Soup!’
Who would have thought one could get so sentimental over dinner? And yet, as I sat down to eat at my friend Mary’s house the other day, and contemplated the “beautiful soup, so rich and green” in front of me, I was reminded (with some nostalgia) of this song, and of being a child reading Alice. Good memories, to be sure.
The beautiful green soup which brought all of this back to mind is called Potage Saint-Germain (and is thankfully entirely devoid of turtles). The word potage itself mostly refers to vegetables cooked in broth, that are to be served hot or cold. It is usually considered somewhat more elegant than the traditional “soup,” which in medieval times designated the slice of bread upon which the vegetables and broth were to be served.
Potage Saint Germain is a thick pea concoction that is most often served warm and accompanied with croutons and cream, but on that day, we ate it cold. It was truly exquisite, so much so that I had to make it again soon, and share it with you. It takes very little time to prepare, but if you intend to serve it cold (which I recommend, particularly as the days go from warm to hot), you should make it the day before you intend to eat it, so it has ample time to chill. Do not skimp on the mint; this is what makes this dish so refreshing.
I hope you make it in the e – e – evening, and serve it the next day for lunch or dinner; just remember one thing: this potage ain’t no soo – oop!
Potage Saint Germain
Adapted from epicurious.com
3 cups vegetable broth
4 cups frozen peas, rinsed
1/2 cup fresh mint, rinsed and dried
2 leeks
4 cups chopped green leaf lettuce (about 1 head)
1 Tbsp butter
Remove the dark green part of the leeks, and slice thinly. Wash well, and dry. In a large pot, melt butter over medium low heat; cook leeks gently in the butter until transluscent. Add peas, broth and lettuce. Cover, bring to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer until the peas are done, about 10 min. Turn off heat, let cool, add the mint and process in batches in a blender, until very smooth. Chill until read to serve. Add drops of fresh cream if desired, and/or croutons.
I can hear the Mock Turtle cry.
